You know that hairstyle that you loved back in the day… and never thought would come back in style? Mine is pick-and-drop braids — with micro base braids on the crown that go down about three inches and then cascade into loose waves or bouncy curls. Stars like Beyoncé and Brandy popularized the look back in the '90s and early 2000s, and much to my surprise, the style is trending again — but with a modern twist.
On TikTok, the style is called boho braids and goddess braids interchangeably, with those hashtags racking in nearly 38 million and 223 million views respectively. This wispy take on box braids is essentially an upgrade on a classic Black protective hairstyle that immediately caught the attention of those who grew up in the '90s. Much like pick-and-drop braids of the past, you'll see the 2023 version starts with a base of braids, but the length is even longer than before. In the past, the style was executed with synthetic hair (mainly because that's what was widely available), but that comes with its fair share of knotting and matting. Now, stylists prefer using human hair which can be "more versatile and less harsh for this style," says Los Angeles-based hairstylist Larry Sims.
It's often hard to pinpoint where trends begin, but "Zoë Kravitz was an inspiration for a lot of us to go back to this style," says London-based hairstylist and braider Jacinta Rutana. And, in the past year, celebrities like former first lady Michelle Obama and Jordyn Woods have put their own twist on the free-spirited style.
Bicoastal travel braider Shanna St. Cyr says boho braids are her most requested style lately, in both New York and Los Angeles. The reason she thinks it's so popular among her clients: "You can get a weave look without an actual weave install." That cuts down on cost and allows you to experiment with various hairstyles that would be otherwise difficult to wear with a weave.
Here, is more on how the style has evolved and what to know if you plan on trying boho braids for yourself.
- Larry Sims is a Los Angeles-based hairstylist and the co-founder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union
- Jacinta Rutana is a London-based hairstylist and braider
- Shanna St. Cyr of Tropix Braids is a travel braider who works in Los Angeles and New York City
How Boho Braids Are Different From Pick-and-Drop Braids
Boho braids have taken the foundation of pick-and-drop braids and elevated the style. The biggest change: the length of the base braids. pick-and-drop braids were usually about three inches long, with loose waves or curls at the ends of the braids. The idea was to have the braids all but hidden at the crown of the head, creating the illusion that the hair was growing out of the scalp. Boho braids, on the other hand, put more emphasis on the braids instead of trying to hide them. The loose curls are incorporated throughout the braids at different lengths, which makes for an even blend of braids and tendrils.
And, before, stars wore the style in waves and even long, straight wispy layers (Take Beyoncé's blonde pick-and-drop hairstyle, seen above, circa 2001). Now the texture is almost always curly, which blends with the braids more easily than straight pieces would.
Boho braids also mainly use human hair whereas pick-and-drop featured synthetic hair. These braids are one of the most popular ways to get flowing hair extensions that look natural. And by using human hair, there is newfound versatility. The look can be styled with heat and there is less matting, says Sims. If you're partial to synthetic hair, Runata says you can still use it, but it works best in just the braids, and not the loose hair.
What to Know Before You Get Boho Braids
Put the comb down. Sorry to break any DIY hearts, but this protective style should be reserved for the salon. Rutana explains the look requires a high skill level: "I use a knotless technique, so it's easy on your natural hair to ensure there’s not as much breakage," she explains, which isn't easy to do on yourself. Working with human hair (which is recommended for this style) "can be challenging due to the softer texture of the hair which makes it hard to grip," says Rutana, so it's best to leave it to a professional.
It's best to consult with your stylist to establish if they will provide the hair or if you need to source it ahead of your appointment. Many salons don't provide hair extensions, so oftentimes, you'll need to visit your local beauty supply store ahead of time. Stylists can usually advise on what hair to buy — Runata loves Bohotress braiding hair which is exclusively available online in the U.K.
How to Prep Your Hair for Boho Braids
Plan to arrive at your appointment with washed and blow-dried hair. Some stylists offer this service but if it's unavailable, a simple shampoo to cleanse your hair and scalp, followed by a conditioning treatment to moisturize, and a thorough blow dry is all you need.
How to Maintain Boho Braids
A weekly refresh will prolong the wear of boho braids. Runata recommends combining a mixture of water and leave-in conditioner in a spray bottle and misting the braids at least once a week. Additionally, it’s important to wrap your hair with a scarf and sleep in a bonnet to preserve the style. To keep the style looking its best, Runata recommends a touch-up after four weeks.
The Average Cost of Boho Braids
The overall cost ranges from $300 to $600, on average. There are three main factors: the location of your salon, the price of the hair extensions, and how long and thick you want the braids. To give you an idea, St. Cyr charges $695 for small boho braids with hair included and $485 for the same style in medium width. Most salons and braiders have a standard length (usually falling right above the tailbone), so if you want braids any longer than that, chances are you’ll be paying extra.
The price is steep, but the braids do last when they are done well. Runtata says her clients keep the style in for about six to eight weeks depending on their hair type and if the extensions are reusable.
Discover more braid inspo:
- Michelle Obama Put Her First Lady Twist on Knotless Bohemian Box Braids
- Rihanna's Box Braid Charms Have Me Running to the Beauty Supply Store
- Gabrielle Union's Half-Up Spring Twists Make for Her Cutest Hairstyle Yet
Now, watch a Howard University dance captain's beauty routine:
